This weekend we will taste the Falanghina Campanella IGT ($23.99) from the Casa Setaro winery in Campania, in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius. Over 600,000 people live within the active volcano’s danger zone, which puts a harrowing perspective on tending vines and hoping the next eruption is not in one’s lifetime. The irony is the same ash from the volcanic eruption that buried both Heraculeum and Pompeii has also nourished many grape varieties in this terroir that imparts a unique taste to the wine. The sandy soil that covers Mt. Vesuvius protected the vines from the grape phylloxera that decimated most of continental Europe’s vineyards since the pests could not survive in the sand.
Massimo Setaro, heir to the Setaro pasta enterprise (which is Piazza’s best-selling dried pasta) is dedicated to making the Mt. Vesuvius’ wines as well known as the wines of Mt. Etna. He founded Casa Setaro in 2004 and his philosophy of keeping his eye on that future inspired the label for his wines with a large eye on a bright orange label. He now manages 12 hectares of vines of rooted plant material of indigenous grapes.
Falanghina’s name derives from the Latin “falangae” (phalanx), the formation of the Roman legions that resembled the poles used to support the grapes in the vineyards. Emily & I tasted this wine recently with one of our distributors and we liked “Campanelle’s” tropical fruit and citrus notes, aromatic herbs, and fresh taste- the perfect pairing for fresh seafood, seafood pasta or risotto, and Piazza’s soft and semi-soft cheeses. Falanghina shines when paired with fish, grilled or fried, or with shellfish, seafood, or sushi. My favorite pairing is Setaro’s spaghetti with Piazza’s white clam sauce.
On a historical note, Falanghina was hailed by Pliny the Elder and was a favorite of the King of the Two Sicilies. I will miss seeing all of you but I will be away this weekend toasting my oldest great-niece at her wedding reception in TN. One of my colleagues will host the tasting on Friday from noon to 5:45 or Saturday from noon to 4:45 by one of the registers.
Cin Cin!
Jenn
