A couple of months ago, someone on Facebook conducted a survey, asking: What is lacking in Easton? A significant number of people responded that a wider variety of ethnic foods would be a welcome addition to the mid-shore area. That wish is about to come true. On Saturday, September 14, 4 Sisters Halal Meat and Groceries on 600 Dover Road will be having a ribbon-cutting ceremony for their new food trailer. To be known as 4 Sisters Kabob and Curry, the trailer is attached to the store and will be selling Indian and Pakistani food.

Was this event years in the making? Are there a lot of investors? Not quite. Shortly after opening the specialty grocery store in October 2018, the family-owned business began catering their traditional food. This led to take-out platters and meals served on Tuesdays and Fridays to a growing and appreciative lunch crowd. Customers who signed up were alerted via text on that day’s selection. As demand began to increase, the family decided the time was right to expand their business. They considered and rejected physical restaurant space due to lack of funding. Eventually, their search led them to Ryan Groll from Sprouts who had put his food trailer up for sale.

But to what some may see as luck and things falling into place, to Shahida Perveen, the mother of the 4 sisters named in the restaurant, this opening will be the fulfillment of a life’s longing—the old-fashioned achieving-the-American-dream-kind. 

It begins with Perveen, a single mom. A woman who came to the United States from Pakistan, looking for a better and safer future for her family. Perveen was fortunate. Her parents were already living in the U.S., on the Eastern Shore, and were able to sponsor the family. With no knowledge of the English language, Perveen began working at a KFC on Kent Island. She would get a ride to work at 9 am and return at 11 pm, while her children were taken care of by their grandparents. Eventually, the family found housing on Kent Island and Perveen switched jobs, working at 7-11, and running a flea-market stand in Delaware on weekends. 

Until she had a stroke. 

During the three months in rehabilitation the eldest daughter, Andleeb, at the time 16 years old and on summer vacation, took over her mother’s shift until Perveen was able to return. The twelve years at 7-11, were followed by seven years at Easton Shell gas station. These were not easy years for Perveen who suffered two additional strokes and was also diagnosed with diabetes. Throughout it all, she kept on working, doing catering on the side, providing for her family, and saving whatever she could.

Areej, Bushra, Andaleeb, Shahida, and Shanza

Which brings us to an idea she had about starting her own business, preferably a restaurant, where she could put her talent and passion for cooking to use. With help from Andleeb, now married with children of her own, they started looking for a place in Easton. One problem: no one would finance Parveen’s dream. “We tried all of the banks,” said Khan. “Nobody wanted to give us a dollar, nobody.” So, they took a risk. They couldn’t afford to start a restaurant, but they did the next best thing. They opened a Middle Eastern Grocery store that sold the foods Perveen and her family grew up with. Exotic spices, like methi and cardamom, naan and paratha breads, basmati rice, halal meats including goat, beef, and chicken. 

Word got around about Parveen’s talents as a cook which led to the food trailer idea. “We’re not trying to copy anyone,” says Andleeb, “We’re not trying to be another pizza place or another burger or barbecue joint. We’re bringing a specialty that comes from our heart and our homes.”

As with the store, the trailer will be named after Parveen’s family—the daughters for whom she had sacrificed and who now were helping to ensure the success of the business. Says Andleeb, “You know, it’s not just a name–4 Sisters. There are actually four sisters, and they’re alive, and they’re existing, and they all have a story to tell.” Not surprising is that the sisters’ stories show how much they learned from their mom.  Andleeb, who when not at the store with mom, is studying for her nursing degree and raising two children. Shanza on full scholarship and in her 4th year at the University of Maryland will be pursuing a medical degree. Areej, also on full scholarship, attends Washington College with a dual degree in political science and business. Bushra, the youngest, helps out at the store and just started 9th grade.

Something else besides the name will appear on the trailer. The words: The American Dream. Perhaps, in the end, this is a tribute to a woman who came to the United States from Pakistan, looking for a better and safer future for her family. A woman, who through hard work, insurmountable odds, unrelenting determination, and yes, a little luck, found that she was able to give her daughters, a new home, a family business, and a lifelong lesson on perseverance.

A typical menu for the food trailer will feature a platter with two sides. Items such as Butter Chicken or Lamb Masala, Vegetable Samosas, curries, etc. The family promises to have something to please both meat-eaters and vegetarians. Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 10 am-9 pm; Friday & Saturday 10 am-10 pm, and Sun 10 am-8 pm.

Val Cavalheri is a recent transplant to the Eastern Shore, having lived in Northern Virginia for the past 20 years. She’s been a writer, editor and professional photographer for various publications, including the Washington Post.

When word got around that three of Cambridge’s most popular restaurants closed in less than three months this past winter, townspeople people began to worry. Would Cambridge’s energetic food scene suffer?

A recent walk around downtown Cambridge has dispelled this concern. In fact, we’re glad to report that a new wave of cool places has energized the area. Katie Clendaniel, Executive Director of Cambridge Main Street, agrees. “We are marketable as a destination, and even though business come and go, the reputation stands, and we continue to build on that. We have already built a reputation as a food destination thanks to various places – Bistro Poplar, Ocean Odyssey, and even more casual establishments like Carmela’s Cucina and our dockside establishments. Also, events like Taste of Cambridge have helped launch and sustain the connection with Chesapeake Bay foodway focused on Blue Crab and now giving exposure to Snakehead Fish.”

So, if you haven’t gone to Cambridge lately, here are some places that have opened recently that you need to check out.

Ava’s and Theos

Who is not familiar with the award-winning Ava’s Pizzeria & Wine Bar or the all-American classics served by Theo’s Steakhouse? Both have been a staple in St. Michaels– Ava’s since 2008 with Theo’s opening three years later. To the delight of many fans, Ava’s in Cambridge has just celebrated their first anniversary, and Theo’s opened just last month. Says owner of both restaurants, Chris Agharabi about the decision to open in Cambridge: “First, the three restaurants that closed, had nothing to do with the town itself. What it comes down to for us is that at the end of the day there are a lot of good people who live and work there and they needed some options. Cambridge has a historic and cool downtown. Business is good and not as seasonal as in St. Michaels. We have a lot of locals who are regulars.” One regular is Elyse Camozzo from Easton, who is impressed with the friendly and pleasant atmosphere and prefers the Cambridge location. “Food is consistently good, and they have a nice wine selection. The wait staff is knowledgeable. Good service.”

Some of the crowd’s favorites at Ava’s includes their Detroit deep dish pizza, meatballs, and fresh mozzarella. As much as possible, they use fresh, locally sourced produce and make their food from scratch. This includes all the pizza dough and mozzarella. The menu is basically the same as St. Michaels, but the Cambridge location is larger and has a big event room capable of accommodating a group of 30.

With Theo’s recent opening, the menu is not as extensive, and there are a few differences from the one in St. Michaels. They are also still working on the wine list. But, according to Agharabi, he’s been pretty happy with the response from customers. “We put some money into the restaurant and have brand new equipment.” Despite their sleek and upscale environment, shorts and boat shoes are welcome.

We spoke with Anna Tiernan from Doylestown, PA, who ate at Theo’s the weekend they opened. “I had a yummy salad and the best crab cake sandwich! We had great service. This was a relaxing and really enjoyable meal.”

Ava’s: 543 Poplar St, Cambridge
Open seven days for lunch and dinner at 11:30 am

Theo’s: 305 High St, Cambridge
Dinner: Wednesday-Sunday at 4:30 pm
Happy hour daily starting at 4:30 pm

Bombay Tadka

There is a reason this eatery is being included even though they are not located in the downtown area. That’s because most people we spoke to, mentioned this Indian restaurant as being one of their new favorites in Cambridge. Bombay Tadka (Tadka meaning a type of cooking technique), has been open since April 2018 and has seen a steadily growing repeat business.

Owner Rohit Shinde thinks he knows why. His customers, he says, are eager to try foods from different cultures. He describes Indian cooking as covering all six tastes that create the flavorful and complex food found on his menu: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent. Additionally, Indian cooking contains a wide range of vegetarian options such as Saag Paneer or Gobi Manchurian, as well as meat-eater favorites Chicken Tikka Masala and Lamb Chettinad.

As the ambassador of this cuisine, Shinde has been offering a weekly Sunday buffet. Last month he held an Indian Street Food Festival, bringing a varied selection to a sold-out, standing room only crowd. To assure that more people have the opportunity to experience some of their specialties, he’s extended this month’s Ganesh Festival over a three-day period. Shinde recommends keeping up with their specials on social media, particularly Facebook.

For those who think Indian food is spicy, Shinde wants to assure them that all food is cooked to order and they will accommodate any level of spiciness. Ben Lee, who works in Cambridge, agrees. “Every dish I’ve had there has been excellent. The owner is really good at recommending you a dish you’ll enjoy based off of your previous visits or tastes. Also, the paratha is to die for. It’s one of my favorite flatbreads I’ve ever had.”

Late-breaking news: Bombay Tadka is looking to open a carry-out location in Easton. Stay tuned.

Bombay Tadka: 1721 Race St.
Lunch: 11 am to 2:30 pm
Dinner: 5 pm-10 pm
Closed on Mondays

Maiden Maryland Sweets & Treats

In March, when Tammy and Tracy Lynndee opened their gift shop featuring goods made by local artists and artisans, ice cream was never part of the plan. They had an extra room at their shop and thought about selling craft sodas, and Maryland made snacks. But then a friend gave them this advice, ‘if you’re going to sell anything, you need to serve ice cream. That’s the real missing link in Cambridge.’ He was right, and their business exploded. In only the two months since they rented additional space and opened Sweets and Treats, they have sold over 1600 gallons of ice cream.

The shop sells Hershey’s ice cream, chosen after much research. “It’s a known and great product, says Tammy Lynndee, “and it allows us to keep our price point low so that we’re community-friendly. Tracy and I have been single moms, we’ve felt the pinch of having to provide for our kids. So, we didn’t want any family to feel like they have to mortgage the house to bring the kids out for ice cream.”

To serve their dairy-free customers, the pair has gone to Cream Cruisers out of Baltimore. “Through them, we get sorbet push-pops that are so good,” says Lynndee, “We have them in watermelon and strawberry-lemonade flavor. Plus, we also sell Hershey’s lemon sorbet.”

Whatever you’re craving, chances are one or more of their many flavors can satisfy. As proof, the shop is always packed with smiling customers. Lyndee thinks it’s because Cambridge has a lot to offer visitors. “Cambridge has become a destination; not just locals are coming to our town. We see people from DC, Philly, and Virginia. We have people spending a week here on their vacation from California, Colorado, and Wyoming. If you’re coming to Cambridge, you’re getting something different; you’re not getting something that you can find in any city.”

Maiden Maryland Sweets and Treats: 315 Gay Street (corner of Poplar)
Monday-Thursday noon-8 pm.
Friday & Saturday noon-9 pm.
Sunday noon-5pm.

Blue Ruin

There is a certain nostalgic atmosphere about Blue Ruin. It’s part New Orleans, part Cheers, part cocktail lounge, and part neighborhood bar. Which is precisely what owner Doug Kyle and “Head Mixologist” Paul Dendorfer hopes you take away from your visit. After all, the name Blue Ruin, refers to the nickname given to homemade (bathtub) gin during the 1920’s Prohibition. To further add to this nostalgia, Blue Ruin is currently working with a distillery to make their own blue-tinted gin.

The cocktail bar, located on the corner of Race and Gay, opened at the end of July. “There is something for everyone, we’re not just a cocktail bar,” says Dendorfer. “You could get cocktails. You could get a glass of wine, a draft beer, or a 2.50 can of beer.”

And that’s only part of what makes them so different from others in the area. Blue Ruin serves classic cocktails; mixtures that most bartenders will need to consult in their how-to guide: Rickeys, Manhattans, Old-Fashioned, and Side Cars. They also pay homage to their town with Cambridge inspired cocktails with names such as Underground Railroad and Long Wharf Punch. “And then there is stuff that I play around with,” says Dendorfer. June Cuddy, Western Shore resident and first-time visitor to the bar was enjoying one of his specials, the Cocoa’s Essence cocktail. “This drink is beyond delicious,” she said and mentioned how much she liked the overall vibe of the bar. “I’ll be back.”

Another difference worth mentioning is freshness, not typically a word associated with a bar. “We make our own fresh-squeezed grapefruit, orange, and, lime juices,” says Dendorfer. “We use all fresh local herbs. We make all our own syrups, limoncello for cocktails, and vanilla bourbon. I make my own tonic for gin and tonic. We don’t have any flavored spirits; you’re getting natural flavors going into your cocktails.”

Blue Ruin is being mentioned in this compilation of new eateries in the area because it’s about to start serving food. Not tapas says Dendeorfer, but shareable plates. “You won’t be getting an appetizer, salad, and entrée. You’ll be able to make a meal out of it, but it will be different.” Also, look for their current menu of 33 cocktails to double in size by next month. Something tells us this is just the beginning.

Blue Ruin: 400 Race Street
(Starting September 9th)
Sunday-Thursday 4 pm to midnight
Friday and Saturday 4 pm to 2 am

Expecting a crowd because of the Labor Day weekend, this Spy Diner’s team set out for lunch early at Doc’s Sunset Grille in Oxford.  A crowd could have stressed the kitchen or altered the ambience to undermine the accuracy of this report.  

As requested, this report conveys what a weekend lunch is like at Doc’s. To accomplish this mission, we brought two kodaks, two culinary experts unaffiliated with the Spy, and a dog. The dog was for cover, a means of distracting the waitstaff away from the fact we were photographing our meals as well as eating them.

The restaurant replaced the Masthead Restaurant, which this Spy liked.  We feared for the worst. When Doc’s opened, however, significant effort was made to preserve what was good about the Masthead while improving other things.  The result is a casual restaurant/bar that is a pleasure to visit. 

The inside portion of the restaurant is often empty except on cold, windy days or for patrons watching sports on the large TV mounted above the bar. The bar itself is well-stocked and staffed with attentive, friendly people.  On the day of our visit, we did not sample Doc’s beers or any other alcohol. On previous visits we found no faults in this area. Doc’s is a nice place to relax over a beer or nice glass of wine. 

Outside, the view itself justifies a visit.  During our meal, several boats entered and exited the harbor, none of them Russian or otherwise suspicious.  In the distance, a sailboat race at the Tred Avon Yacht Club could be viewed. Very nice. The remains of the dock that was severely damaged in a hurricane a few years back have become home to a menagerie of local birds.  They monitor the diners from their perches and provide entertainment for younger diners.

The wonderful views and pleasant breezes could have distracted us from our primary objective.  We did not let this happen. We began our meal with fried calamari, which received a top rating.  Agent 4 then directed the two unaffiliated gourmands to order different menu items. They refused.  This resulted in three of the four diners ordering the crab cake sandwich. This was unfortunate but provided the team with a larger sample upon which to render our judgment.   This spy diner judged the crab cake “excellent,” an evaluation confirmed by the two expert gourmands. This was a rare compliment from a duo known to occasionally known to reject dishes, even at great restaurants not meeting their high standards.

Here’s a closeup, taken with a special device.  It makes me hungry just to view it. 

The fourth diner in the party ordered the special, a honey garlic shrimp sub with bacon, tomato, cheddar cheese and onion.  No calorie count was offered, and you can guess why. We note that the portion size was exceptionally generous, which prevented that diner from finishing it.  The bacon was clandestinely removed from the restaurant and taken home to reward our dog for participating in the mission. This dish was described as “quite good.”

The fries were judged by this spy diner to be “good but not great.”  This assessment, despite its objectivity, was disputed by the two gourmands.  They liked everything, even declaring the water that accompanied their meal to be “quite satisfactory.”

Here’s a shot of the outdoor dining area.  We regretted having to leave once our meals were consumed.

Service at Doc’s was excellent and included a nice bowl of water for our canine companion.  She felt at home and concurred in the gourmands’ assessment of the fries. She sampled eight, swallowing each one in a single bite.  

We left Doc’s glad that we had visited it.  We declare it to be an excellent choice for lunch or dinner, especially if the weather is conducive to outdoor dining. We’ll be back.  If you see a party with a gorgeous, well-behaved doodle, it could be us. 

 (Re)Build It and They Will Come

After this Spy Diner wrote a piece on Bas Rouge in Easton, a friend called me an elitist, noting that relatively few Eastonians are lucky enough to eat there.  They suggested that I visit a more popular restaurant. The friend suggested that Spy readers would welcome reading about a restaurant “in the mainstream.”

I followed the advice and set plans for a meal of Chicken McNuggets, fries, and a Coke at the McDonalds’s located in the Marlboro Plaza shopping center in Easton.  I drove there, hungry, but ready to share objective comments on my meal. If the fries were cold or the Coke flat, Spy readers were going to hear about it.

Alas, when I pulled into the shopping center, the McDonald’s was gone, sort of.  It is sort of gone because it is being remodeled.

Hundreds, perhaps thousands, of Eastonians likely experienced the same disappointment I did.  A wait of two or three months for a meal is nobody’s idea of fast food.

Even the drive thru is closed!   

When this unit reopens, the fries, Big Macs, and Happy Meals will return.   If press releases are accurate, the food should also be a bit better. McDonald’s is promising to use fresh beef in its burgers and antibiotics-free chicken.  Although I’m not a regular customer, I’ll see if I can tell the difference. I’ll also go regular size and leave the Super-Size offerings for others.

If the progress on the remodeling so far is any indication, the new McDonald’s will look quite different than the old one.  A banner at the construction site promises “A Fresh New Look.” It should be as nice as any of the other 375 McDonald’s in Maryland. Expect an iteration of the current McDonald’s design motif.  No huge golden arches but still unmistakably a McDonald’s.

Will Ronald McDonald attend a grand re-opening? Will pictures of Eastern Shore waterfowl grace the walls?   Only time will tell. Patience is called for.   

 Stay tuned. Once this unit re-opens, I will venture back and hope to offer Spy readers my insights.