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May 17, 2025

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1 Homepage Slider Archives Local Life Food Friday

Food Friday: Back Yard Grilling

June 5, 2020 by Jean Sanders

’Tis the season! I might be grasping at straws, but last weekend found me rejoicing, because it is grilling season. The hot, splattery world of cooking is moving outdoors. And while we are not singing around the campfire just yet, it feels like we have turned a little corner in our Covid-narrowed world. Maybe there is some relief ahead of us. I’ll wave to you over the back fence.

A year ago we became a Farm Family, buying a subscription to a small local poultry farm, which provided us with a whole chicken and 2 dozen gorgeous eggs every month. It’s not that we knew these chickens personally, but we feel a closer connection, and take more care when thinking about preparing them. Roasted chicken is my go-to meal – I could be happy with roasted chicken and rice every night of the week. But during the warmer months, when I happily cede cooking rights and privileges to Mr. Friday, we experiment.

Last Saturday night we spatchcocked that chicken. Spatchcocking makes it easier to grill a chicken in one layer, without overcooking or undercooking. Spatchcock is said to be shorthand for “dispatching the cock” – which means to open and flatten the chicken in order to cook it. I had to avert my eyes for the final, bone-crunching crack of its back, coward that I am. Julia Child would be disappointed in me, I know. But she would have poured Mr. Friday another glass of wine, and marched him off to the grill. This is a handy-dandy video: https://www.saveur.com/how-spatchcock-chicken/

I suspect that Mr. Friday chose this Grilled Spatchcocked Greek Chicken recipe because it came up first in his Google search, but it was quite deelish. https://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/food-network-kitchen/grilled-spatchcocked-greek-chicken-3364920 It took more time to hunt and gather the ingredients than the time spent actually grilling. We had to take two masked trips to the market because dried oregano is just not the same as fresh. Nor is dried dill acceptable when you can fill the air with roughly chopped dill aroma as you whip up the marinade. Note: be careful not to grate your fingertips along with the 3 cloves of garlic.

After spatchcocking the bird we poured half of the marinade mixture (and the chicken) into a large plastic bag, and popped the bag into the fridge for an hour. Assiduously, Mr. Friday set the timer. And when the bird came out of the fridge, it sat, patted dry, at room temp, for half an hour. During the timed intervals we washed the asparagus, made a green salad, and whipped the cream for a chocolate cream pie for dessert. Remember, I warned you last week that everyone is going to gain 5 pounds during this quarantine period.

Mr. Friday prefers a gas grill, and used a meat thermometer to be sure he was following directions. I was busy adding green onions and the dill to the remaining marinade, which drizzled nicely over the well-cooked, and rested, spatchcocked chicken. We added the asparagus, candles, wine and Red Granger Radio. And then there was pie. Welcome summer grilling!

The folks at Bon Appétit have the added flourish of cooking a spatchcocked chicken using 2 bricks to keep the chicken flattened. This seems excessive to me, but you might enjoy yourself. https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/chicken-under-a-brick

“One can follow the sun, of course, but I have always thought that it is best to know some winter, too, so that the summer, when it arrives, is the more gratefully received.”

― Beatriz Williams

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Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Archives, Food Friday Tagged With: Food Friday

Food Friday: Get Outside!

May 15, 2020 by Jean Sanders

The wise scientists are saying that we should get outdoors and into some sunlight on a regular basis. It might be time to open our front doors a crack, and step cautiously outside, following state-mandated COVID-19 requirements. They say that the coronavirus doesn’t seem to spread easily in the great outdoors, although we should be mindful of social distancing, masks and hand sanitation. I say some sunshine is just what the doctor has ordered. I’ll be wearing a hat, my ubiquitous mask, and will be slathered in sunscreen this weekend as I track down a You-Pick-It strawberry farm. It is an opportunity to get out of the house, and go someplace other than the petri dish that is our weekly visit to the grocery store.

If you can’t visit a farm, lots of farmers markets are devising safe contactless ways for us to produce and grocery shop. Call ahead, or visit their websites, so you can support our local food producers. You do not want all those luscious strawberries to go to waste!

A few weeks ago we bought some strawberries (from California) at the grocery store. I have a limited repertoire of strawberry recipes, because why mess with perfection? Strawberry shortcake has always seemed the natural answer for what to do with a couple of pints of strawberries. And like my mother before me, I reached for the trusty box of Bisquick that always stands on a shelf in the pantry. Did I check the expiration date on the box? Of course not. I hate to admit this, for once the child was right.

We laugh that one of our children always checks expiration labels. I don’t worry about them much, because things seem to fly off the shelves with great and alarming regularity. He checks religiously, assiduously, and obsessively, one might say. I guess he was deeply scarred by eating something that was stale once, and now it is his one of his weird character traits. (Obviously I have bigger things to worry about – like what the heck did I plant in all those little seed starters? The Sharpie marker label faded away, and now I have several pots of burgeoning mystery plants, without a clue as to what will emerge once they all bloom. That’s a real worry.)

For our strawberry shortcake dessert I mixed up a batch of Bisquick shortcake dough (following the recipe on the side of the box, as one does), rolled it out and cut out six little rounds with the ancestral biscuit cutter, and popped those babies in the oven. I cleaned the strawberries, sliced and sugared them before pouring water (with a little lemon juice) over the slices to lightly macerate them. I whipped the cream, and enjoyed licking the beaters by myself, because I don’t have any pesky know-it-all children here to share with.

And then the oven timer went off. Ding. Flat-as-pancake shortcakes lay sullenly on the cookie sheet. Back into the oven for another couple of minutes, just to see if they needed a little more baking time. Nope. Nothing was going to fix these now dark brown and scorched hockey pucks. They were as leaden and heavy as if I had attempted sourdough bread again. And they sailed right into the trash.

We had delicious strawberries and whipped cream for dessert. Then I sadly examined the Bisquick box playing Kitchen CSI. In bold type there was a Best-Served-By date of 2016. Whoops. So I have to take it all back, Tall One. You were right. Check the damn dates.

Last weekend I tried a Dorie Greenspan recipe for “Tumble-Jumble Strawberry Tart” which was just divine. It was basically a dense lemony shortbread, slathered with strawberry jam, fresh sliced strawberries and whipped cream. The cake is not supposed to rise. I managed to avoid more humiliation until I can get back to the grocery store and buy a new box of Bisquick. Or this might take the place of the old family secret recipe, since not only was it delicious, you can make it ahead of time, and freeze the crust. Genius. It is a new take on one of our favorite springtime desserts. Imagine trying this with peaches, or raspberries, or any seasonal fruit. Things may be looking up!

Go forth and frolic in the sun. For a little while anyway.

https://www.laweekly.com/a-recipe-from-the-chef-dorie-greenspans-la-palette-strawberry-tart-recipe/

“The human body is vapor materialized by sunshine mixed with the life of the stars.”
-Paracelsus

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Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Food Friday Tagged With: Food Friday

Food Friday: Home Baking During the Shutdown

May 8, 2020 by Jean Sanders

Nobody’s going out to dinner these days. Instagram isn’t filled with those envy-inducing shots of tantalizing dishes at gastropubs and haute chophouses, with hard-to-score reservations and Michelin stars. There isn’t much fancy cooking going on anyplace, as we all huddle in our home kitchens and try to sustain ourselves actually and aesthetically. Everyone is down with simple cooking. And some days it’s difficult to move past the skills necessary to open and eat a box of Cap’n Crunch.

I have to admit that I am always a little slow to see what is trending. I guess it’s because I’m not glued to the internet all day long, and some things just pass me by. And that can be a good thing. I’ve missed out on the Kardashians, Dancing with the Stars, quinoa, Tiger King, K-pop, emojis, Tik Tok, and now sour dough bread.

Everyone who is anyone is baking competitive loaves of sour dough bread, and then posting the images on Instagram and Facebook and one suspects, Snapchat, if one was cool enough to have a Snapchat following. People don’t only post their bragging success photos – they are very proud to show you their big fat failures: the loaves of sour dough bread that could double for Olympic curling stones.

If I had sour dough starter to begin with, I am sure that that’s where my bread would be categorized – heavy, leaden, inedible loaves that could serve as door stops. Luckily, no sour dough starter has materialized in our kitchen. I would probably kill it, anyway.

There are ways to make your own sour dough starter. But frankly, I have started painting the back porch, and that’s one project I would like to finish in time for summer. But here is a little guidance if you have more time on your hands, and need a project: https://www.feastingathome.com/sourdough-starter/

Here is some more science: https://www.discovermagazine.com/the-sciences/whats-the-difference-between-sourdough-starter-and-yeast

I have had successes and massive failures baking bread. The failures came because I am impatient, and cannot wait for the bread to rise, often over night. When I start to bake, I would like immediate gratification. That’s why brownies are always so satisfying. Even Mark Bittman’s No-Knead Bread requires time and patience. It calls for a 24-hour prep time. https://www.markbittman.com/recipes-1/no-knead-bread
And yes, it is very tasty, eventually.

Which is why focaccia is the bread for me in these trying times.

Skillet focaccia: https://www.thekitchn.com/focaccia-recipe-261454

These are easy directions – you can start after lunch and have tasty, fresh, piping hot focaccia for dinner. My favorite part was poking the little dimples into the dough after it has risen. And then artfully scattering the rosemary leaves, which I picked from the plant running wild in the container garden. (The rosemary plant has thrived outside even through the past two winters. It is an amazement to me.)

I just loved baking this focaccia in the cast iron skillet. I’m adding it to the list of good foods that can be prepared in just one pan – always a plus in my book because most of the time I am the designated dishwasher. It was crispy and crusty and tasted divine dipped in a small saucer of olive oil and garlic, salt, pepper, dried oregano and basil. It is practically a meal unto itself. Add salad and wine, and if you are being really pesky, an entrée. Mr. Friday and I gobbled up half a pan, which left half a pan to go in the freezer, that we hauled out delightedly a few nights later. Food in the freezer = money in the bank and less prep time. More time to paint the back porch, or weed the lettuce bed, or sneak in another episode of “Run”. Use your quarantine time wisely.

Show us your baking projects on the Spy Facebook pages. We are too old for Snapchat. https://www.facebook.com/thetalbotspy/ and https://www.facebook.com/thechestertownspy/

“All sorrows are less with bread.”
― Miguel de Cervantes

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Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Food Friday Tagged With: Food Friday

Food Friday: It’s Time to Plant the Salads

May 1, 2020 by Jean Sanders

May is National Salad Month.It is also National Barbecue Month, National Hamburger Month, and National Strawberry Month. It is going to be a good month for eating. I hope our quarantine condition lessens it constraints soon, but in the meantime, we have lots of garden planning and digging to do.

Now is a good time to get a jump on cool-season vegetables. You can start the annual competition with the deer and rabbits for the finest lettuces, broccoli and spinach. We are going to try some mixed, loose-leaf, heat tolerant lettuces this year. I want to enjoy the practical concepts of growing our own lettuce, with an eye to the enviable.

That is always the best part of gardening, seeing everything in your mind’s eye in the gauzy Instagram future. Somehow there I am always wearing a float-y white outfit as I drop my bountiful harvest into my antique garden basket. I love the way I am always in total denial about mosquitoes and fiery ant bites.

This morning I snuck out of our quarantine shutdown and ran, carefully masked, to the grocery store where I was appalled to see that this price – $4.09 for a single puny bag of pre-washed mixed spring greens! Holy smokes! We are fighting back. Last weekend we shopped locally, and we bought some lettuce plants at our charming independent hardware store (along with some very attractive tomato plants) and we spent the quarantined weekend elbow deep in the dirt in the garden.

We are watching the new garden with the anxiety level of people in search of a new binge-worthy Netflix show. When Mr. Friday wanders out of his home office (the kitchen table) around 6, we amble outside with glasses of cheap white wine, tossing the ball for Luke the wonder dog, and then we circle the newly rabbit-proof-fenced garden. The first blossoms on a tomato plants were duly noted on Wednesday. Right now the lettuces are scarcely large enough to interest the neighborhood bunnies. But still, we dream.

We dream about lettuce wraps, and salads. Deelish medleys of chopped and sautéed vegetables and tender meats wrapped in brilliant green lettuce leaves, grown in our own back yard. Or a bowl heaped with crisp fresh lettuce leaves, peppers and tomatoes, topped with sizzling slices of steak. It has been a very long winter, hasn’t it, that now we are dreaming in these lengthy days of social distancing of the golden glories of summer harvests and parties with friends? The weeding hasn’t even begun and we are hurling ourselves into the future, with delusional projections of bumper crops. It will be the best vegetable garden ever, our eight foot by 4 foot allotment of expensive, perfect, bug-free, pesticide-free veggies.

Is there anything more boring than an iceberg lettuce salad? It is nothing but tasteless, crunchy water, slathered in oleaginous dressings, dotted with hot house tomatoes, sprinkled with stale croutons. Do you remember Bac’n Bits – those leathery maroon soy flakes that purportedly tasted like bacon? I am much happier now that I fry my croutons in bacon fat, and then crunch that real bacon up and scatter it on my salad, not overlooking a smackeral for my constant, dogging companion. How about orange French dressing? Now we can hurl a garlic clove into a bowl, douse it with good oil and vinegar and salt, and there we have it, the best salad dressing ever. Holy smokes, the times have changed, and everything salad-wise keeps getting better.

Personally I could never understand the appeal of the wedge salad. Whack a wedge out of a head of iceberg lettuce, dribble it in bottled blue cheese dressing, serve it on a minimalistic square plate and charge $9 for it. I could do that at home, except that I wouldn’t. I would rather eat something a little more flavorful and deelicious. How about you?

Our Caesar Salad
1 head of Romaine lettuce, washed and torn (not cut) into bite-size pieces
1 cup cubed, tasty, firm bread
¼ cup bacon fat
1 large clove of garlic, crushed
¼ cup excellent extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 lemon, halved, with the seeds removed
1 splash Worcestershire sauce
½ cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese
½ teaspoon thyme

Heat the bacon fat in a small frying pan, add the crushed garlic clove and toss the bread cubes in the hot fat until bread is brown and crunchy. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and thyme.

Put the lettuce in a bowl (we like to use a large, shallow wooden bowl), and drizzle with some olive oil. Toss the lettuce well, in a bold, jolly fashion, adding squirts of lemon juice and a dash or two of Worcestershire and coat the leaves well. Add the Parmesan cheese and toss briskly. Put on plates, or in shallow bowls, add the crouton if there are any left. (Generally our kitchen help tests the crouton and we have very few to add to the salads. Thus the serving for two.)

Enjoy! Any wine will do.

Here are a couple of helpful salad dressing links from Martha and Food52:

Martha’s Bleu Cheese Dressing: https://www.marthastewart.com/355217/blue-cheese-salad-dressing

Heart health be damned! Try this Bacon Vinaigrette Salad Dressing from Food52: https://food52.com/recipes/218-bacon-vinaigrette

“…so even if spring continues to disappoint
we can say at least the lettuce loved the rain.”

― Lisa Olstein

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Filed Under: 1 Homepage Slider, Food Friday Tagged With: Food Friday

Food Friday: Quarantine Cooking Lessons

April 24, 2020 by Jean Sanders

What are you cooking for dinner tonight? When was the last time you went to the grocery store? We felt like we had money in the bank when we pulled the baked ziti container out of the freezer Monday morning. A couple of weeks ago we made two batches, and cleverly stashed one away for a rainy day. And it rained on Monday. But we had a nice, easy meal ready in half an hour, complete with bread (from the frozen bread stash) and a green salad and candlelight. There was enough leftover for us to re-heat on Wednesday night, so it was another simple meal.

It is just the two of us right now. We miss those nights of chaos when we cooked for, and with, the children. There are plenty of households right now with families who are pent up inside together all day, who have to make complicated decisions about dinner and shopping, and who is cooking, and how everyone can help. It is a great time to for everyone to walk away from the virtual classes, and share a hands-on cooking experience with your kids.

A child who knows their way around the kitchen is independent, and better prepared for the future. A child who knows how to boil water for pasta, how to roll out dough, how to wash lettuce, and how to pick out fruit and vegetables will thrive. While they work by your side, you have a more opportunities to be a better parent, and share family stories and recipes while teaching someone to count out tablespoons, cups, ounces, pinches, dollops and soupçons. You will learn patience, and your children might thank you someday. (Spoiler alert: don’t count on that.) You will travel together, and these days of social distancing might become a warm memory.

Our first cooking experiences with our children came in the form of homemade pizza. I still have the photos to prove that initially we wore more flour than we seemed to actually knead. Eventually, in weekly progressions, we learned to make a decent dough. We experimented and tweaked the recipe every week – more flour, different flour, more water, more kneading. This is why Mark Bittman is our household god: https://www.markbittman.com/recipes-1/pizza-dough

Our children stood on Rubbermaid stools so they could reach the counter as we learned to measure level cups of flour, and level teaspoons of yeast and salt, and to pour tablespoons of olive oil without spilling. The dog was particularly found of these cooking interludes, as the dog believed in the magic of gravity and the bounce factor associated with falling food; particularly pepperoni, and mozzarella cheese as it was grated.

Using a box grater requires patience and some skill acquired with experience. Knuckles were grated, too, and tears ensued. But we all learned to be more careful, and discovered it is best to keep a box of BandAids in a kitchen drawer. But mozzarella cheese grating leads to Parmesan grating and then to lemon zesting and onward to fresh nutmeg, which leads to Fettuccine Alfredo. Which leads to learning to boil water, and then salting it before adding the pasta. Which leads from store-bought fettuccine to fresh homemade fettuccine. Which leads to someone reading a menu in a restaurant, and realizing that someone knows how to made pizza, or fettuccine, or eggs over easy.

It all starts at home. Jamie Oliver, who at last count has five children, learned how to cook with his parents, and he encourages his own children in the kitchen. It might be his way of crowd control, but his children seem to thrive in the kitchen. They aren’t whining for junk food. They know how to eat real food, because they know how to cook real food. https://www.jamieoliver.com/features/family-cooking-recipes-to-cook-together/

It doesn’t need to be fancy. Three ingredient cookies are easy, and most of the time you have all of the ingredients in the house, without needing to don your mask and head for the germs at the grocery store.

3-Ingredient Cookies
1 stick butter (softened)
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 cup flour

Roll into balls, and roll balls in sugar before baking equals sugar cookies

Preheat oven to 325°F. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer, beat butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, then stir in flour.
Form the cookies into 1-inch balls, placing them about 2 inches apart on a baking sheet. (Add sprinkles if you’ve got them.) Flatten cookies into a disc shape with a juice glass dipped in sugar. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until the edges of the cookies are lightly golden.

Grilled cheese has saved many a day. Add a can of tomato soup, and call it dinner. But Nutella and Snickers? That will make you a hero of all time for sleepovers, if we can ever have sleepovers again. In the meantime, it will be a great cooking project for a weekend night, with the upmteenth viewing of Frozen.
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2020/apr/20/melting-marvels-the-top-10-toasties-of-all-time?

As children learn to read recipes, they will learn to read ingredients on store-bought food packages. Now they know pizza dough only calls for 5 ingredients, and there are some more depending on your toppings, but they might still question all the chemical names on the side of a box of frozen pizza. This is the list on a box of DiGornio frozen pizza: INGREDIENTS: ENRICHED WHEAT FLOUR (WHEAT FLOUR, NIACIN, REDUCED IRON, THIAMINE MONONITRATE, RIBOFLAVIN, AND FOLIC ACID), WATER, LOW-MOISTURE PART-SKIM MOZZARELLA CHEESE (CULTURED PART-SKIM MILK, SALT, ENZYMES), PEPPERONI MADE WITH PORK, CHICKEN AND BEEF (PORK, MECHANICALLY SEPARATED CHICKEN, BEEF, SALT, CONTAINS 2% OR LESS OF SPICES, DEXTROSE, PORK STOCK, LACTIC ACID STARTER CULTURE, OLEORESIN OF PAPRIKA, FLAVORING, SODIUM NITRITE, SODIUM ASCORBATE, PAPRIKA, PROCESSED WITH NATURAL SMOKE FLAVOR, BHA, BHT, CITRIC ACID TO HELP PROTECT FLAVOR), TOMATO PASTE, SUGAR, 2% OR LESS OF VEGETABLE OIL (SOYBEAN OIL AND/OR CORN OIL), WHEAT GLUTEN, DEGERMINATED YELLOW CORN MEAL, YEAST, SALT, DATEM, BAKING SODA, SPICES, WHEAT FLOUR, ENZYMES, DRIED GARLIC, ASCORBIC ACID (DOUGH CONDITIONER). https://www.digiorno.com/products/rising-crust/pepperoni

If you can take your kids to the farmers’ markets, where they can meet (at a safe social distance) the people who grow their food, they might have a whole new appreciation for the meals that you bring to their table every day and night. It won’t happen overnight, because nothing ever does, but if you start to introduce them with regularity to the local food chain, we will all be healthier for it.

Don’t think you will send them off to Le Cordon Bleu next week. Start small. Teach them to wash lettuce. You will have to learn to share that exciting salad spinner. And there is a lot of fun to be had in tearing the lettuce, and then learning how to peel carrots. This is just the beginning for the children, and right now we have plenty of time to spend together in the kitchen.

“Good food is very often, even most often, simple food.”
― Anthony Bourdain

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Food Friday: From the Cupboard

April 17, 2020 by Jean Sanders

We are trying to maintain a cheery outlook and some degree of sanity as we plod along in this new pandemic, cooped-up world. Mr. Friday works from home, at the kitchen table most days, while I am toiling in the studio. We chat on bathroom breaks and when I wander out to the kitchen for a swig of Diet Coke. We meet in the middle, at the kitchen counter, for lunch, where we discuss our dinner plans. Remember the glory days of going out for dinner? Sigh. We do, too.

Our weekends loom large and there are only so many home projects we can collaborate on before a little friction wears our taut tempers even thinner. Last weekend we primed and painted a dozen replacement window shutters for the house. They are still sitting in the garage on Thursday morning waiting for the final coat of paint. Then I emptied out the window boxes for said windows, and planted them with expensive, yet such tiny, petunias, impatiens, sweet potato vines and lobelia. (You can barely see them from the street!) The front of the house looks tidier. The side of the house, with two other window boxes I completely forgot about, looks sad and neglected. I promise I will get around to it this weekend.

Last weekend we also emptied out, culled and reorganized the freezer, and catalogued the remaining contents. It is amazing what we will do for entertainment these days. Other people watch Netflix on their individual screens in remote parts of their apartments, and we decide it would be fun to clean out the refrigerator. Together.

Happily, we now have the bread collection under control. It is amazing how many singleton hot dog buns were carefully nestled in the freezer. Ever since we started the annoying habit of scrawling the freezer entry date on the plastic storage bags, we are appalled by how long we hold onto things. I doubt if we took such care with our children’s preschool art projects. I have already bored you with the fun fact that our 10th Anniversary Commemorative tin of Old Bay Seasoning was only replaced upon the 20th Anniversary. I doubt there is much of a re-sale market for vintage Old Bay. Let alone the 2-years-past-its-sell-by-date long-life milk carton that I just found it the back of the fridge. I had bought it for a hurricane a few years ago, and naively assumed it was good forever. Last week I discovered the August 2019 date stamped on it. Whoops.

Now that the fridge is in relative apple pie order, this weekend we will tackle organizing the pantry. Aren’t you glad you have to stay home and can’t drop by to visit?

When we aren’t trying to come to grips with our squirrelly behavior we do long for the good old days of jumping in the car and going to a restaurant. My final meal would be spaghetti from a great red sauce, family-run Italian restaurant in Stamford, Connecticut: Pellicci’s.* Pellicci’s was our family’s go-to spot for celebrations. It had red and white tablecloths and amiable, voluble owners who would always greet my father like he was their long-lost cousin. My brother and I would tuck into the spaghetti with gusto. We still like to eat there whenever I get up to Connecticut. It reminds us of our childhoods, and the meals we shared with our parents, back when our big decision was whether to have spaghetti or pizza.

Most Friday nights Mr. Friday and I make homemade pizza. We have perfected the dough and the baking time over the years. Last weekend we decided to branch out in our fantasy restaurant world and try, again, to make homemade pasta. If we can’t go to Pellicci’s, we could bring Pellicci’s here. While there was no waitstaff who were delighted to see us, we made a credible meal. It was an adventure in dining that was diverting and delicious. And we whiled away another evening in isolation.

Luckily, you can do this, too. Go look in your pantry, and grab the flour. If your fridge is nicely organized you will know where to find the eggs, just like us. The olive oil is on the counter near the stove, along with the container of salt. We cheated and used a jar of Rao’s marinara sauce, which was also in the pantry. If you have a little more time on your hands, and who doesn’t, make your own pasta sauce. But we were intent on survival – not completely re-inventing the wheel. I know Mr. Pellicci wouldn’t mind if we scrimped this once.

This is the pasta dough recipe we used: https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/fresh-pasta-dough

3 large eggs, beaten to blend
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt

Mix eggs, flour, oil, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer with your hands until a shaggy dough forms. Knead with dough hook until dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Cover dough with plastic wrap and let rest at least 30 minutes.
Cut and roll as desired.

We used the fancy Kitchen-Aid pasta attachment for rolling out the fettuccine. We managed to dust flour all over the kitchen, but it was fun. Heavens to Betsy. Do you remember fun? It was as good as Play-doh. But this time around, you can eat it. And Instagram it!

Food52’s recipe is even more basic – no olive oil! Perfect for when you can’t go back to the store, because we really should be staying home. https://food52.com/recipes/27825-simple-fresh-pasta

And if you have a can of tomatoes in the pantry, you can make a better sauce than we used: https://picky-palate.com/10-minute-homemade-pasta-sauce/. Don’t scimp on the garlic.

Add some grated cheese, some cheesy Dean Martin music, a little antipasto (celery sticks work fine) and some modest red wine. Check out the bread collection in your freezer; you might unearth something resembling garlic bread. Enjoy! You have acquired a new skill, learned how to make a new dish, and had a virtual dining out experience. And we will all muddle through.

“Everything you see I owe to spaghetti.”
-Sophia Loren

*https://pelliccis.com

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Food Friday: Easter Eggs

April 10, 2020 by Jean Sanders

Are you feeling spring-y? I am feeling anxious because we are not cooped up in a fifth-floor-walkup in New York City, where my dog walking would be the sole outings for the day. I am lucky to have a back yard, with a garden that is beckoning me to come out and weed and thin seedlings. The hydrangeas are greening up. The tomatoes are in. I’m transferring the daffodil bulbs from containers into places in the yard where the daff display was a little sparse this year. I can sit out on the back porch and enjoy some sunshine with my sandwich at lunch, and watch the dogwood blossoms dancing in the spring breeze.

The fact that I am not feeling spring-y reflects the difficult times the world is experiencing. I need to thank my lucky stars for this glorious spring weather, and knuckle down to at least go through the motions of preparing for Easter. No Easter egg hunts this year. And I can’t justify buying jelly beans if I am not going to be tucking them into anyone’s Easter baskets. And Peeps? They hardly count as essential. I toyed with the idea of trying to make homemade Peeps. There is a highly amusing Bon Appétit video about Claire Saffitz recreating Peeps, but when I looked at the ingredient list I was pretty sure that neither I, nor you, Gentle Reader, has a secret stash of gelatin or potato starch in our pantries. Next year, that’s when we will make Peeps from scratch, and eschew store-bought.

One thing we do have in abundance is fresh eggs. We are a Farm Family, and once a month we get two dozen eggs and a whole chicken from our favorite poultry farmer. And they are such beauties! I don’t know how many chickens they have laying eggs, because every month we get another array of jewel toned-eggs: green, blue, brown, pale beige, rust, speckles. We won’t need to dye any eggs this year, the natural colors are quite beauteous without any chemical enhancement.

Eggs by themselves are charming, joyous and symbolic. Add some of the precious ingredients from our pantries, and larders, and we can make all sorts of Easter delights without offending the hard-working grocery clerks with our whimsical caprices. Surely they wouldn’t begrudge us Challah, or bacon, or English muffins? Whereas they might have looked askance if we had asked the whereabouts of potato starch

Behold, the Spy Test Kitchen’s Easter Breakfast Listicle for the Season of Social-Distancing and Self-isolation. Use Zoom to add friends, relatives and acquaintances liberally. And remember, breakfast can be eaten at any time of the day. Be creative. Add Champagne.

French Toast
My very own French Toast recipe on Food52: https://food52.com/recipes/4622-weekend-french-toast

Bacon, Egg and Cheese Casserole
With only 2 of us, I halved this recipe: https://www.twopeasandtheirpod.com/bacon-potato-and-egg-casserole/#wprm-recipe-container-39516

Bacon Cheddar Quiche
This recipe will hold you in good stead – because you can use it for lunch, dinner, cocktail parties, brunches, small village fêtes, you name it. You will be popularity personified.
https://iwashyoudry.com/bacon-cheddar-quiche-recipe/

Eggs Benedict
Sleep in your guest room, pretend you are staying in a hotel, and on Easter morning treat yourself to a posh hotel breakfast. Don’t forget a bowl of strawberries; they will be in season soon, and you can go pick some yourself. We hope.
https://tastesbetterfromscratch.com/eggs-benedict-with-homemade-hollandaise-sauce/

Baked Eggs
This will come in handy when we are having houseguests again, and need to rustle up breakfast for a crowd. In the meantime, it is easy for just one or two, too. https://www.epicurious.com/recipes-menus/how-to-make-baked-eggs-article

Cheese Soufflé
You’ve got time on your hands. Do you want to learn how to code, or to make something fabulous? https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1015853-cheese-souffle?

Egg in the Hole
And after you have become a soufflé whiz, this will seem very easy, and yet, so deelish: https://thepioneerwoman.com/cooking/egg-in-a-hole-see-alternate-names-below/

Deviled Eggs
And what would Easter leftovers be without some deviled eggs? Or a picnic? https://www.brit.co/smoked-salmon-deviled-eggs-recipe/

Be kind. Be strong. Wash your hands.

*https://www.bonappetit.com/video/watch/gourmet-makes-pastry-chef-attempts-to-make-gourmet-peeps

“I suppose the best kind of spring morning is the best weather God has to offer.”
― Dodie Smith

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Food Friday: Treat Yourself to Lunch

April 3, 2020 by Jean Sanders

Having burrowed deep into our self-isolation I am feeling a little bereft. There are so many problems in the world which are huge and looming and frightening. My little hill of beans is pretty inconsequential. After wallowing in Contagion, and skirting Chernobyl, I have opted for a little light humor and armchair travel. We are enjoying the absurdity of Travel Man, (on Hulu and Amazon Prime) where Richard Ayoade travels to glam spots around the globe and eats and drinks delightful comestibles. He does this with a cute British accent, in charming company, and on an expense account. It sounds like the perfect job assignment.

The Spy’s budget is a little more restrictive. As is my itinerary. I can sneak out a couple of times a week to tear quickly through the grocery store, which is 1.2 miles from our house. The supplies there are limited, too. But this week I was able to score a pound of bacon and some lovely vermillion slicing tomatoes. I am going to treat myself to a nice lunch, much like the ones I used to enjoy in 2019. It’s time for homemade BLTs; my fave.

I love BLTs. Bacon, lettuce, tomato, with a judicious schmear of mayonnaise is my dream lunch. Throw in a generous serving crispy wavy potato chips and a Diet Coke and you cannot possibly ask for anything more. Club sandwiches have a certain appeal, I know, but they are awkward to eat; all that bread. There are multiple layers which just yield to disappointment and crumbling. And the turkey goes sliding, and things fall apart, and inevitably you wind up using your fingers. Which is never a good look if you happen to be on a first date. But who is dating in April of 2020, anyway? Let’s stick with the tried and true; the very essentials.

Let’s start with the bacon. Since this is Friday, I say we can go wild and each have four pieces of bacon. I like cooking bacon on parchment paper on a cookie sheet. I preheat the oven to 425° F. I try to use thick-cut applewood smoked bacon. At this point in our sequestering I am very happy with the store brand, however. We must not be snobs. If you can hunt and gather thick-cut bacon, lucky you, cook it for about 15 minutes without supervision. You might want to flip it, so the juicy, crunchy, wavy nature of bacon is completely optimized. So do not go on a Twitter-rant and lose track of time. If you wind up using thinner bacon, keep an eye on the oven and check every few minutes. Bacon can self-immolate without much notice. And burnt bacon is beyond repair.

Bread is important, too. I like either Pepperidge Farm white bread, or a nice deli rye. Some people are fancy and want to use challah, or pumpernickle, or croissants. It is a personal choice, based on your childhoods, and your degree of pretense. Please lightly toast the bread, and spread each slice with a light, even coating of Hellmann’s mayonnaise, or Duke’s, if you grew up with it.

Tomatoes must be red and juicy and absolutely grown outside in good dirt with lots of sunshine. So obviously the best BLTs are constructed in the summer, with your own sun-warmed tomatoes. You might need to use your imagination in April, with whatever produce your grocery store has been able to snag from local suppliers. (I put our tomato plants in the raised-bed garden last weekend, and am hoping for the best, and that I didn’t plant them too early.) Use a couple of tomato slices for each sandwich. It really isn’t all about the bacon – you need tomato juice running down your chin and onto your pajamas to get the full experience of BLTs in the time of quarantine.

Lettuce is simple. Every refrigerator, despite the best efforts of the Bon Appétit-reading aspirational cook, has at least one head of iceberg lettuce. It’s in the back, near the baking soda and the bacon grease can. Tear off a few crunchy leaves and wash, gently, in cool restorative water. Blot carefully. Do not even contemplate substituting rocket or endive or Romaine lettuce. This is sacred.

Layering is important – toast, mayonnaise, bacon, tomato slices, lettuce, mayonnaise, toast. Slice on the diagonal. Serve on a large plate, with a towering pile of potato chips and a slice of dill pickle. Add a glass of Diet Coke, or chocolate milk is you really want to be decadent. Add a cloth napkin, and whatever book you are currently reading. I am reading an autobiography of one of Princess Margaret’s ladies-in-waiting. It is chock-full of snobs, scandal and vicious gossip; priceless commodities these days.*

If the BLT isn’t your favorite sandwich in the whole wide world I feel very sorry for you. But the idea here is to treat yourself to something nice. Maybe you would rather have a hot grilled cheese with some tomato soup. I don’t often cook lunch for myself. I usually wander into the kitchen and rummage through the fridge for last night’s leftovers, or pull out a jar of peanut butter and a sleeve of Ritz crackers. Pathetic.

If you are able to, treat yourself to an unexpected nice meal. We all need a little cheering up. And a BLT will certainly put a smile on your face.

Our lovely friends at Food52 always have great ideas. I would like you to notice that I am not suggesting you make your own mayonnaise. Sheesh! https://food52.com/blog/10855-5-tips-for-a-better-blt

Nor am I telling you to get the grill out! https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/grilled-bacon-blts

“It is more fun to talk with someone who doesn’t use long, difficult words but rather short, easy words, like ‘What about lunch?’”
– A. A. Milne

*Lady in Waiting: My Extraordinary Life in the Shadow of the Crown
by Anne Glenconner

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Food Friday: Quarantinis!

March 27, 2020 by Jean Sanders

How are you coping during the great Coronavirus quarantine? Most of the time we feel good about keeping our neighbors safe, and ourselves, too. Other times we are feeling a little forlorn and bereft. Our social life, which hasn’t been great since our children stopped having playgroups, is about the same. We walk the dog for exercise and much-needed Vitamin D, but we have stopped going to the gym. I have broken my daily habit of running to the grocery store every time the nature abhors a vacuum in the pantry. Even the UPS guy has stopped knocking, which is a good thing because Luke the wonder dog is convinced he is a Nazi stormtrooper coming after us, and tries to claw through the front door whenever we get a delivery. Still, it was nice to shout,“Thank you!” to a human being as he ran for his life.

I miss conversation. I miss yakking about something as innocuous as the weather or the new stripes being painted in the store parking lot. I miss just yakking. I still have a reflexive urge to check the answering machine whenever we come home – keep in mind we haven’t had a land line in five years, let along an answering machine. Almost everyone has a smartphone these days. I was startled when mine rang the other day, and there was a real, live person on the other end. Not a telemarketer, or a political campaign. A person who wanted to talk with me! I am inclined to think that my bar has been set way too low lately.

One of my dearest friends from college was out for a walk, and decided to use the telephone feature of the tiny computer she carries in her pocket to connect with me. She wasn’t Googling anything. She wasn’t checking IMDB to see how old Bill Pullman was. She wasn’t taking a photo or listening to a podcast. What a brilliant concept! She touched the little button by my name in her address book while she was out getting some socially distanced exercise in her neighborhood, and we yakked for an hour about work, parents, children, dogs, television shows, knitting, books, weddings, travel, new babies and due babies. An hour flew by, and we were eighteen again. And we resolved to conquer technology, and to get together with some other friends from Washington College at a virtual cocktail party. We are going to Zoom, Skype, FaceTime, Google Hangouts, What’s App. We’ll figure it out. We are going to have a Quarantini Hour, where we will consume alcohol and laugh our brains out and see each other’s smiling faces. What a concept! Wish us luck.

But you should try it, too. Reach across the great abyss and use technology to visit the village of your college friends, or that old pre-school playgroup, or even your own kids. Plan a time to get together with your book group. Put on some lipstick, if you are so inclined; under-eye concealer is our friend. Set up your laptop or your iPad or your phone in a place where you can control the lighting. Watch the camera angle – lately some of the people on the evening news being interviewed from their improvised home studios look like chinless wonders. Have the camera be in line with your eyes. Good lighting is paramount. Don’t sit with windows behind you. Then find a neutral background. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMex-9FyljU But after the first scotch and soda, who is going to care?

The past is a foreign country. In those long ago days at Washington College when we first met, it was legal for us to drink beer at 18. We shake our heads nowadays at the notion that there was a college-sponsored beer wagon at our freshman orientation. (I can still see my mother craning her neck, reluctantly waving goodbye to me that first time she left me behind in Chestertown. She was incredulous; I had a beer in my hand!) So we grew up in a culture that believed in a cocktail hour. We often had themed parties, with the appropriate cocktail for each bash. I am glad to say that we outgrew Purple Jesus Punch. In our more recent years we decided that the Cosmo was pretty, and it was sophisticated enough for us, now that we were all grown up. We also discovered that three is our limit. It should be a glorious Quarantini. Cheers!

Cosmo à la Shirl
https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/cosmopolitan

The French 75 is now my cocktail of choice. When we used to go out, back in the day, in February, I would order a French 75. On Saturday nights now Mr. Friday mixes up one or two for me.

French 75
https://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/french-75-3 That is Bon Appétit’s way.

This is Mr. Friday’s recipe:
2 ounces Cognac (he likes his with 2 ounces of elderberry cordial)
¾ ounce fresh lemon juice
¾ ounce simple syrup
2 ounces Champagne (but Prosecco works just fine!)
Lemon twist

For your Quarantini you can always have beer, pricey white wine, a V&T, Two Buck Chuck, Diet Coke, Champagne, Prosecco, coffee, tea or water. What is important is not feeling alone. Spread your love, and see how far it goes. Like good butter. Pick up your phone, and socialize.

“I’ve been homesick for countries I’ve never been, and longed to be where I couldn’t be.”
― John Cheever

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Food Friday: Share and Share Alike

March 20, 2020 by Jean Sanders

It has been a long week of self-quarantining and social distancing. I have worked from home for years, and never before realized before how much I enjoy my almost-daily runs to the grocery store. I ask Alexa to turn on the local NPR. I load up a red rubber Kong toy with peanut butter. I grab a handful of re-useable cloth bags from Shenk’s Family Farm, Daunt Books, Vanity Fair and Eataly (being sure to include a wine bag, because who knows when a bargain Chardonnay is going to suddenly materialize). Then I tell Luke the wonder dog that I’ll be back in just a little while. And I am off, and free to meander through the neighborhood grocery store. But this week I have only been out to the store once.

Some days I write an extensive list, and print recipes with all the good intentions that will be paving my way straight to hell. I always leave them on the kitchen counter, next to the weekly calendar that is still opened to last week’s events and deadlines, under the coupon I meant to bring to save $1.50 on Deer Park spring water. If I remember what I have left behind in the kitchen before I climb into the car, I will go back and retrieve my aide-mémoire. Otherwise I go to the store, and just wing it. If I am attempting a tricky-woo recipe from Food52 I can easily find it on my phone, and if it means another week without fancy bottled water, so be it.

In these challenging Coronavirus times I am trying to be mindful, as should we all, she typed preachily, of my place in society. I am staying home. I am not going to infect Kevin Bacon’s mother. So far our town doesn’t have anyone infected with the virus, but there also aren’t a lot of people being tested. And last week I was still getting over a cold brought on by airplane travel, so I was aware that there was a good chance people would think I was Patient 1, spewing deadly germs all over the Chips & Snax aisle, as I coughed furtively into my elbow, and then swabbed myself down with Clorox wipes.

The last time I went to the grocery store was on Tuesday. I saw bare shelves where chicken and beef are normally displayed. (Plenty of meat substitute was still there, though.) There weren’t any Kleenex or paper towels or Clorox wipes. But that was Tuesday. Friday might be a different story. We are pretty much set for groceries for a while. I didn’t stockpile, but I actually came up with a meal plan for the week, something most grown-up food writers manage to do without an international pandemic mandating their behavior.

Our meal plan called for me to do some extra cooking, so instead of the romantic little dinners for two that I normally toss together, I am cooking for imaginary trenchermen. I am making enough to freeze and to share with my neighbors. We have a mix of families on our street. There are parents who work full time with two young children across the street, who are suddenly working from home, and are scrambling to educate, entertain and toil earnestly. I think they might like an aluminum pan of baked ziti, with a side of garlic bread one night, don’t you? And on their left is an ancient fellow, who usually buzzes up the street on his mobility scooter a couple of nights a week for dinner at country club. Maybe he’d like a pan of meatloaf, with some mashed potatoes and a side of chocolate ship cookies. Maybe he’d like a little gossip through the glass storm door, too. I can tell him how deserted the grocery store parking lot is these days. Our immediate neighbors are radical vegans. I’m bringing them a handful of just-picked daffodils and some petunias I started from seed. Let the sharing begin.

We really like this variation on baked ziti from our friends at Food52, although there was a shocking lack of garlic, which is my only criticism. Next time I will add a couple of cloves of the good stuff. If we have a zombie apocalypse next, can the vampires be far off? We must be prepared! https://food52.com/recipes/82374-best-baked-ziti-recipe

Check on your neighbors, rub your dog’s belly, take a walk, be mindful, be nice.

“The more we can be in a relationship with those who might seem strange to us, the more we can feel like we’re neighbors and all members of the human family.”
-Fred Rogers

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

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