Our Danube River cruise, a scenic and historic perspective of East Europe—its first three days described in last week’s column—ended the past Thursday in a somber way on a gray, overcast day in Nuremberg, Germany, scene of Adolph Hitler’s huge rallies and the 11-month trial in 1946 that resulted in the conviction of high-ranking German civilian and military leaders during World War II.
This journey into the past was an optional tour for passengers on this particularly Viking River Cruise. For me, this excursion into a time of horrific actions by Nazi Germany was never optional. A bus load of fellow cruise passengers seemed just as riveted and repulsed as I was.
We saw the massive platform where Hitler and his senior staff watched 180,000 troops and military equipment engage in parades, as 120,000 civilians watched, all caught up in a frenzy of nationalistic fervor and emotion. Hitler and his top people were geniuses in creating illusions of power and good feeling. Germans seemed eager, almost hungry to embrace a better future, economically and politically. The Fuhrer cleverly hid his misdeeds, specifically his dehumanizing treatment and murder of Jews, gypsies, the mentally challenged and homosexuals. While not completely oblivious, Western world leaders seemed uncaring and unwilling initially to confront German hegemony.
After visiting the parade grounds, now used for car races, our group then absorbed World War II history in a nearby museum, presented objectively without obscuring what the civilized world already knows about an awful 20th century catastrophe. The truth still hurts and haunts humankind. His rise to power and his ambitious conquest of much of Europe was a tribute to Hitler’s ruthless use of military might and deception.
Still on a walk through history, our group visited the building housing the courtroom where 10 German leaders were convicted during a trial that drew worldwide attention. One of my fellow cruise passengers later questioned why we Americans and allies went to the trouble of conducting a trial, instead of simply executing the war criminals. I pointed out our nation’s dedication to justice; he didn’t seem convinced.
Now, I don’t want to leave readers with the impression that the visit to Nuremberg was solely a difficult look into the past. It was that, unquestionably. But we also saw a dynamic city, the second largest in Bavaria. And, of course, we went to a local market to search for the best gingerbread cookies in Germany, learning that many cities claim that distinction. We bought this local delicacy—while also believing the hype was overblown, and our American version is equally tasty.
As I wrote last week, the Danube River is a waterway filled with beautiful scenery and long history. As we traveled north on the Danube, a waterway suffering from a drought, we spent one spectacular day cutting through the Wachau Valley in Austria, viewing small churches and towns and lovely terraced vineyards. The perspective from our long boat, smoothly traversing the river, was simply captivating.
While we stopped at towns and cities along the way, like Melk in Austria and Passau and Regensburg in Germany, my favorite sightseeing spot was Regensburg, with its narrow, cobblestone streets, gorgeous baroque church, attractive stores and a touching memorial site where a synagogue once stood before being destroyed roughly 600 years ago during a wave of anti-semitism. This inviting medieval city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
For the past few years I have heard glowing comments about Viking river cruises, not just on the Danube River but many other locations as well. Rarely did I hear a negative comment. I now will join the chorus of fans who speak so favorably about an experience that provides a relaxing, yet educational way to view fascinating parts of the world.
It’s always good to come home and feel comfortable in our own settings. Air travel is hardly any fun these days, what with increased security, uncertain departure and arrival times and aircraft filled with people sitting in narrow seats with limited leg room. Sound like unbecoming whining? Well, maybe, but the destination, such as the Danube River, is well worth the inconvenience.
Columnist Howard Freedlander retired in 2011 as Deputy State Treasurer of the State of Maryland. Previously, he was the executive officer of the Maryland National Guard. He also served as community editor for Chesapeake Publishing, lastly at the Queen Anne’s Record-Observer. In retirement, Howard serves on the boards of several non-profits on the Eastern Shore, Annapolis and Philadelphia.
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