Oxford is a small town that treasures its history. From year to year, often there is little change. That is why the opening of Anthony’s Italian Restaurant a little more than a year ago piqued my interest. What would the new place be like? Would I find it as welcoming as the much-loved Latitude 38 that once occupied the same space?
A restaurant is very much a reflection of its chef. I had seen Anthony on several occasions over the past year but had never sat down with him to hear his story. I addressed that deficiency last week with an hour-long chat with him just before the restaurant’s lunch service began. My goal was to better understand Anthony’s cooking philosophy and background. Specifically, I wanted to know how Chef Anthony viewed Anthony’s.
Anthony explained that his mission is to offer authentic Italian dishes using the highest quality fresh ingredients in a comfortable and homey environment. The restaurant exudes an old-world charm, featuring extensive artwork, including prints by Caravaggio and Rembrandt, Waterfowl art, as well as nature pieces by Anthony’s wife.
Anthony’s love of cooking all started when he was seven years old. He grew up in Queens, NY, and his dad worked the night shift at JFK Airport. Anthony began making bacon and eggs for his dad each morning when he came home from work. As a young teen, he worked at pizzerias on Long Island. He honed his craft at fine dining establishments in New York, Florida, Massachusetts, Vermont, and finally Maryland.
Anthony’s cooking philosophy is concise: “Buy high quality ingredients and then stay the hell out of the way. Simplify, simplify, simplify.” His signature dishes include an appetizer called Burrata in Camicia—fresh mozzarella breaded and deep fried resting on a bed of marinara sauce with pesto and balsamic reductions; lasagna made with crepes; Rigatoni Edmundo—rigatoni in a cognac cream sauce with mushrooms, artichokes, peas, and prosciutto chips; Chicken Toscana—chicken with Italian sausage, Tuscan beans, rosemary and spinach, He offers more than seven desserts, including Lemoncello Cake, Seven Sisters Cake, and Almond Pannacotta.
One of Anthony’s favorite compliments this season was from an Italian tourist who was so enamored with Anthony’s cooking that he ordered three desserts. After the meal he exclaimed, “This is as good as anything I have had in Italy. You should go there and teach them!”
Chef Anthony sometimes roams from table to table and helps his diners decide on a particular dish. Once they have made their selections, he often recommends a complementary wine. Two of his favorites are Vermentino from Sardinia, and Gavi di Gavi.
Anthony claims that Eastern Shore diners love their anchovies. “I have never seen so many diners order their Caesar salads with anchovies! It is great! They also love the Semolina wheat bread that we bake each day.”
Anthony’s is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. The restaurant offers catering services for unique events, such as graduations, rehearsal dinners and business meetings, and now sells entire cakes, including Lemoncello and Chocolate Espresso ones. Periodically throughout the year the restaurant has special events with singers, art shows, and more. For the menu and events listings go here.
Maria Grant was principal-in-charge of the federal human capital practice of an international consulting firm. While on the Eastern Shore, she focuses on writing, reading, piano, kayaking, biking, nature, and gardening.
Wilson Dean says
Thank you Maria for the background on Anthony’s. He’s able to imbue a tinge of his quirky character into his dishes, making for a delightful experience.
Melanie Edell says
Fabulous restaurant!