Looking at the Masters: Fountains of Rome by Beverly Hall Smith

Rome is famous for its many outstanding architectural features. Caesar Augustus found Rome a city of bricks and left it a city of marble. He began the extensive roadway system that united all of the known world, thus the phrase “All roads lead to Rome.” The grandeur of Roman architecture continued with its numerous magnificently designed and decorated churches.  Roman citizens also are proud of the extensive aqueduct system that brings fresh, clear water from mountain springs to the wells in the City.  Among the other remarkable architectural structures are the celebrated fountains of Rome.

To find two of Rome’s most famous fountains walk down the grand roadway Corso Vittoria Emanuele II from the Tiber River, turn left onto the narrow shop filled streets until coming to Via della Cuccagna, and catch the first glimpse of the Piazza Navona.   In the First Century CE, it was the site of the Stadium of Domitian, where games were held. The elongated oval shape provided a large space that beginning in the Sixteenth Century was the sight of the three large fountains.  First is the “Moors Fountain,” in the center is the “Fountain of Four Rivers” with a copy of an Egyptian obelisk on top, and last is “Neptune’s Fountain.”  Romans loved fountains not only for their beauty but for their utility.  Fountains also were personal monuments to their patrons. Bernini, the greatest Italian Baroque sculptor, was commissioned by Pope Innocent X in 1651 to create the “Fountain of Four Rivers.” The Pope’s family home Palazzo Pamphili faced the piazza.

The four rivers theme is a reference to the four major rivers on the four major continents where Catholic authority had spread. Bernini depicted each of the rivers as powerful male river gods, and with an animal symbolic of each region. The Ganges (Asia) holds an oar because the river was easily navigable. A lion drinking from the fountain can be seen in the crevice. The Danube (Europe), at the left reaches up and touches the Pamphili family crest that bears a dove and olive branch. The Danube was the largest European river closest to Rome. In the crevice between the Ganges and the Danube, facing the church is a horse, symbolizing Europe. At the right, his head covered with a cloth, is the Nile (Africa).  Since the source of the Nile was unknown at the time, Bernini covered the god’s head.

Walk around the fountain to find and truly appreciate Bernini’s creation. On the left is the Nile with his head covered. Winding out into the water, a serpent represents the long river. At the right is the “Rio de la Plata” (Americas). Beneath the seated river god is an armadillo. The river was named Plata (silver in Spanish) to represent the enormous wealth that was to be expected from the Americas. The figure looks up at the church, and seems to cringe. The story told, although incorrect, is that the church had been built by Bernini’s rival in architecture, and Bernini was expressing his astonishment at such an ugly building. The fountain was unveiled on June 12, 1651, to popular acclaim and astonishment.  Next door at the right next of the church is a modern wonder of Rome. Tre Scalini is the home of the most popular gelato concoction. Tartufo is a large scoop of delicious dark chocolate gelato, covered with slabs of dark chocolate, covered with fresh whipped cream, and hiding a Maraschino cherry inside. They can be found all over Italy, but no other can compare.  

The large marble basin and four Tritons of the “Fontana del Moor” were sculpted by Giacomo della Porta (1575) for Pope Gregory XIII. Bernini added the central sculpture of the Moor (Africa) in 1673. Bernini positioned the figure on a large seashell and posed him wrestling with a dolphin. The Moor holds a dolphin’s tale in his hands, and the dolphin’s body twists from behind the Moor’s back and through his legs, and the dolphin’s mouth is a spurting fountain.  Della Porta’s tritons have human bodies with fish tales. Triton was the child of Poseidon, God of the Sea, and his wife Aphrodite, and figures in many Greek and Roman myths.  However, the idea of the human-fish creature had evolved into many tritons, or mermen. Triton, and the multiple tritons depicted here, did carry a conch shell that was used to call up a rising sea or to calm it. 

The base of the “Fountain of Neptune” also was designed by Giacomo della Porta (1574), but was then left untouched. To balance the fountains in the Piazza Navona, a competition was held for the design of the third fountain, the base having been there for about 300 years.  The sculpture of Neptune, the Roman god of the Sea, was added in 1878 by Antonio della Bitta. Neptune holds his trident and wrestles with a massive octopus. The additional eight sculptures depicting hippocamps (half horse-half fish) cupids, walruses, dolphins, nereids (sea nymphs who are the 50 daughters of Nereus and Doris), other sea animals, and monsters were added by Gregorio Zappala (1878).  Each sculpture was selected because its design maintained the excitement, energy, and enjoyment experienced in viewing the other two fountains.  The Piazza Navona remains one of the major gathering points in Rome for dining and entertainment.  It is full of artists and people enjoying themselves immensely both day and night.

Rome does not lack for gathering spots and the “Fontana Trevi” (1732) (86’ high x 161’wide) is definitely a popular destination.  Originally the commission for a fountain went to Bernini (1629), from Pope Urban VIII (Barberini), who did not like the view from his palace window. Bernini made sketches, but the Pope’s war with the duchy of Parma depleted the treasury, and the project went unfunded and unfinished. The project languished until Pope Clement XII (1732) held a competition for the commission which was won by Nicola Salvi. Unfortunately, Salvi died when the project was half finished, and it was completed by the architect, Giuseppe Pannini in 1762. The Trevi Fountain was probably named for the three roads (tre vie) that end at this point and are all related to the aqueduct system of the city of Rome.  The “Trevi Fountain” is attached to one side of the Palazzo Poli. The three large Corinthian pilasters (rectangular columns) that link the two stories of the building were added to support and blend with the impressive size of the fountain. At the top of the fountain can be seen the name of Clement XII Pont Max carved into the rectangle. The larger inscription that stretches across the entire top of the fountain reads Perfecit, Benedictus XIV, Pon Max. At the very top is the Papal Coat of Arms held aloft by angels. There would never be any question about the sponsor of these magnificent public works.

The theme chosen for the Trevi was taming of the waters.  The large central figure is Oceanus, one of the Titan gods who were replaced by the Olympians. Oceanus was the source of all waters, was the great water that surrounded the earth, and was the source for all the earth’s water including wells, rain, and clouds. He rides on a large sea shell chariot drawn by hippocamps and tritons. Carved by Pietro Bracci (1762), Oceanus stands in the niche of a grand triumphal arch. He is the master of all he surveys. The two sculptures in the niches beside Oceanus represent Abundance and Salubrity (Health).  Abundance, at the left, holds a basket of fruit, and from an urn at her feet water pours. Salubrity, on the right, wears a laurel wreath, one of the symbols of Apollo, who among other attributes brings light and health.  She holds a cup of water from which a snake is drinking. In ancient cultures snakes often had a double purpose, and here the snake represents fertility and the mysteries of birth. These two sculptures were carved by Filippo della Valle (1762).

Above the main fountain figures are two bas reliefs. An ancient fountain existed in this location as early at 19 BCE, and was the terminal point of the Acqua Vergine, one of Rome’s major water sources and one that was said to provide the sweetest water. The left relief depicts Agrippina telling the Roman generals where to build the aqueduct. It was carved by Giovanni Grossi.  At the right, maidens show the Romans where to find the water that was the source of the Acqua Vergine.  It was carved by Andrea Bergondi (1762). 

Made famous from the movie “Three Coins in a Fountain” (1954), the “Trevi” is another of the popular gathering spots in Rome, and travelers toss their coins in to assure their return to Rome. The sweet waters of the fountain developed a reputation for healing effects, and the tossing of coins for luck and health was an old tradition. The coins were used to provide for the poor.  A report in 2016 estimated that 1.5 million dollars in coins were tossed into the fountain the year, the proceeds were used to subsidize a food market for the poor.  During the day the square is quite crowded as it is not as large as one might expect.  Restaurants, gelateri, and shops abound in the square and on the three roads that lead from it. Late at night the fountain is dramatically lit, much less crowded, and romantic. Tartufo available does not compare to that at the Piazza Navona, but there is no better place to spend time absorbing the ambiance and beauty of a Roman fountain.

Beverly Hall Smith was a professor of art history for 40 years.  Since retiring with her husband Kurt to Chestertown six years ago, she has taught art history classes at WC-ALL and Chesapeake College’s Institute for Adult Learning.  She is also an artist whose work is sometimes in exhibitions at Chestertown RiverArts and she paints sets for the Garfield Center for the Arts.