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June 22, 2025

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Food and Garden Notes

Wine of the Week: Riviera Ligure Di Ponente Vermentino “Vigneto Isasco”

December 21, 2023 by Jennifer Martella

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Buon Natale!  We are now at the final week of our Christmas Countdown on wines for your Christmas repast and this weekend’s selection comes from one of my fave regions in Italy, Liguria. We will be tasting a dry white wine, the Riviera Ligure Di Ponente Vermentino “Vigneto Isasco” from the Punta Crena winery. If you are planning a Feast of Seven Fishes for Christmas Eve, this one’s for you-next year I plan on inviting six friends and their fish dish to dinner so I can finally have a Seven Fishes Feast!
This native Catholic Tennessean had to endure years of Frozen Fish Fridays so when I first visited Vernazza, one of the five villages in Liguria’s Cinque Terre, eating fresh anchovies from the daily catch while enjoying a glass of Vermentino on a Friday was a revelation! Discovered by famed importer Kermit Lynch, the Punta Crena winery is located in the hills above the tiny village of Varigotti only 1200 meters from the sea. The Ruffino family named their winery for the “Punta Crena” (large promontory) that juts out into the Ligurian Sea. For over 500 years, successive generations of Ruffinos have been tending their neatly terraced vineyards of native grapes planted on either the top of the cliffs or on stone terraces dating from the time of  the ancient Ligurians.
Liguria’s narrow shape curves along the Ligurian Sea and is longer than it is deeper. Its unique geography and steep terrain results in only 12,000 acres being devoted to grapes. For years, due to the over 2.4 million tourists who visit this area, most of Liguria’s wines were consumed in the seaside cafes in towns that cling to the steep cliffs that remind me of a Cubist painting. Today, the Ruffinos and other winemakers have been discovered by astute importers so we can enjoy this Vermentino that is medium bodied, with a crisp lemony freshness, herbal notes that reflect its terroir of rosemary, sage and thyme found on the hills and salty enough to transport me to Vernazza. Pair with anchovies prepared in every way possible, your fave fish or veggies.
We have the Spaniards to thank for bringing the Vermentino grape to Liguria in the 14th century so come join us Friday from noon to 5:45 or Saturday from noon to 4:45 to taste this exceptional Vermentino-
Cin Cin!
Jennifer Martella has pursued dual careers in architecture and real estate since she moved to the Eastern Shore in 2004. She has reestablished her architectural practice for residential and commercial projects and is a referral agent for Meredith Fine Properties. Her Italian heritage led her to Piazza Italian Market, where she hosts wine tastings every Friday and Saturday afternoons.

The Spy Newspapers may periodically employ the assistance of artificial intelligence (AI) to enhance the clarity and accuracy of our content.

Filed Under: Food and Garden Notes

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Letters to Editor

  1. Charles Barranco says

    December 22, 2023 at 7:49 PM

    Excellent Article!
    Thank You!

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